by Anna Ehl

NEW HAVEN, CT– I’ve been spending some time in the New Haven and surrounding environs for the first time this month, and in the course of less than a week, 3 perfect strangers casually recommended that I try Pepe’s Pizza. This was particularly noteworthy as I hadn’t asked any of them for recommendations for local restaurants, or even let on that I am a foodie by trade. That type of undeniable word-of-mouth was worth investigating.

That’s not to say that I wasn’t skeptical. I’ve lived in New York for years, so I’ve eaten a lot of “famous” and “original” pizza with recommendations that turned out unimpressive. I’ve had pizza in Italy; tried Chicago-style; had some of the most amazing pizza in Los Angeles (of all places); and sampled pizza’s many variations everywhere in between, so I am not easily won over by a decent slice.

I grabbed a friend and headed down. Pepe’s is comprised of 2 adjoining dining rooms flanked with booths that join at the counter. Behind the counter is a near army of pizza makers working furiously to get pies out to the hungry crowds filling the place and often spilling out into the street. It looks almost like some strange form of alchemy as they move the pies around a giant wood-fire oven with a huge wooden paddle, which they hang from a hook in the ceiling.

We split a small pepperoni, garlic, and mozzarella pie (if you want cheese, you have to order it here–they are known for their original tomato pie) and a pitcher of Gennesse cream ale. The pitcher was a delight. There were five 10 oz glasses of a light and very drinkable beer and it came out both cold and quick- the best way for beer to arrive. The pie was a short wait as well, especially for how crowded the restaurant was. But considering it was a weekday afternoon, I got the sense that this was “slow” by their weekend standards when lines reportedly spill out the front door and down the block.

One bite and I could see why the locals are so proud of this place. The crust was thin and crispy, but just tender enough not to flake apart. The pepperoni peeked out seductively from a layer of bubbling, almost-brown cheese, and the garlic infused the cheese with savory deliciousness. The small size was just right for 2 people, leaving us both full but not uncomfortably so. Perhaps the biggest surprise of all was the extremely reasonable price. It was just over $15 for the pie and the pitcher of beer, so even with a generous tip, it came out to less than $20. Ok, New Haven, I guess you guys know pizza!

Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana

157 Wooster St

New Haven, CT 06511

(203) 865-5762

www.pepespizzeria.com